For an industry that thrives on variety, creativity and divergent thinking, it’s surprising that models have for so long been required to fit into a rather unyielding aesthetic box. And beyond the obvious necessities – lofty heights, a svelte physique, angular bone structure et al – it’s no secret that most of their careers are confined to a limited lifespan. Rarely do you see a woman over the age of 40 gracing a glossy cover or selling a product that’s not anti-ageing, and it’s not uncommon for pubescent girls to represent luxury brands that exclusively target women over twice that age.
Model: China Machado (December 25, 1929 – December 18, 2016)
But is fashion growing up? Last month Tyra Banks announced that America’s Next Top Model would, for the first time, allow contestants of any age to compete in the televised competition. Previously the upper age limit was just 27 years old.
In the past few years, agencies that exclusively represent older models have started springing up across the world. Grey Agency in London, for example, opened its doors in 2015 and accepts applications from women aged 35 and over. One of their biggest success stories is that of Frances Duncombe, the 84-year old working model who was snapped up by the agency after accompanying her daughter in, and has since walked in London Fashion Week.
Daphne Selfe, Baddie Winkle, China Machado and Carmen Dell’Orefice are just a few of the other mature models out there making waves. In 2015 Selfe was awarded the Guinness World Record title for the world’s oldest working supermodel.
Model: Daphne Selfe
Speaking to The Guardian, photographer Nick Knight believes the new found success of older models is part of a wider cultural shift. “We don’t live in such a youth-based culture as we did 50 years ago,” he said. “The internet is where most people get their fashion information from… and we’re seeing all manner of different cultures and values.”
It would seem that things are changing gradually, though there’s undoubtedly a long way to go. The “classics” board, a feature on many a major agency’s homepage, tends to be reserved for models aged 28 and up – hardly pushing geriatric. Sure, models and the products they sell should be aspirational, but since when has ageing gracefully not been something to aspire to? The past few season’s drive towards inclusivity saw models of varying sizes, ethnicities and ages grace the catwalk, but only time will tell if fashion can overcome its steadfast obsession with youth.
Written by Thea Carley
