I am wearing a gorgeous Urban Safari Hat from the winter collection by “Hats by Maria”, Reiss Jacket, Donna Karan Cashmere Roll-Neck Jumper and my own Sable Fur Stole
Anyone who has ever been to any traditional British events such as Royal Ascot knows the significance a hat has in completing an outfit. This accessory can tell a lot about its wearer: one can either end up looking rather majestic, or as though they have no fashion sense at all. I’m sure you can imagine the huge variety of fascinating styles in all their glory, but very few really stand out.
“The Thistle,” a sophisticated hat with a flower made of feathers ( photo below), was the one that caught my attention. It turns out the piece didn’t go unnoticed – it was marked as one of the best at Royal Ascot 2016 by The Hat magazine. It’s a big recognition, especially for a young, up and coming hatter, such as the designer of “The Thistle”. Her brand, Hats by Maria, was launched just months before the race and performed impressively. Six of her handmade hats made it to the event, gaining swift media coverage and recognition.
En route to interviewing Maria Zherebtsova (the creative designer and owner of the brand “Hats By Maria”) I was thinking about how little we actually know about hats, which are the most mysterious and diverse wardrobe element. How are they made? How does a bunch of straw, wool, fibers, feathers and so on become a masterpiece? Hatters must be unique and extraordinary people to have enough imagination and skill to create even one single style, I thought to myself. Perhaps that’s why the Mad Hatter from Alice’s Adventures had madness attached to his very name.
Before getting into the hat business, Maria had studied at the University of Oxford, had a real-life career in finance and, for over a decade, had worked as a structured products and derivatives sales manager in several large investment banks between London and Moscow.
“I was of mature age when I got into the whole hat business,” Maria says, “but I’ve always been into headwear. Not many people know I have really long hair – down to my calves. (And once again the notion that hatters are anything but average and boring crossed my mind!).
“People are used to changing their hairstyles and trying something new. I, on the other hand, prefer hats and accessories. I’ve always worn decorations on my head. A hat is an incredibly beautiful, almost magical, wardrobe element. Many people believe that hats are only for the confident and brave, who aren’t afraid to be the centre of attention, but in most cases, it’s the hat that actually makes them so confident! At some point I started ordering hats from different designers and got to see the creation process. It’s amazing! Designers try to see the real you and envisage places you’d go wearing their piece. This inspired me a lot, but I didn’t have enough skill to make it all work. That’s when I decided to learn. I became an active learner – I graduated from both the London College of Fashion and then Saint Martins, while also attending training courses taught by professional milliners and doing several internships. So, it happened at the same time: I decided to leave my previous occupation and jump into the field of hat making and personal brand development”.
These two worlds are obviously vastly different. Banking is predictable – there are rigid restrictions and a strict schedule at all times. When it comes to hatmaking, however, there are really no rules. If you are dedicated enough, a beautiful piece of headware can be created in a matter of weeks. Every leaf, stitch, and piece of fabric used by Maria is carefully handcrafted.
Balance, color, and combination are essential to this kind of art and the variety of fabrics and materials is virtually limitless: all sorts of straw, silk, velvet, feathers, banana-fiber cloth, leathers, you name it. “You can make a hat out of anything, actually,” Maria laughs, “right now, for instance, I’m planning to include fur elements for the winter season in England. Hats are really popular in England. There’s even a particular dress-code for some events. Take weddings, for example. There are special hats for the bride’s and groom’s mothers, as well as a range of hat styles for brides. The Royal Ascot’s Royal Enclosure, with visits from the Queen and Royal Family members, has the strictest fashion guidelines of them all – even the hat’s diameter matters!”
When asked what the true mastership to hat making is, Maria states that it’s the ability to mix imagination and hard work, bring to life the ideas that seemed crazy at first, and make it look so natural and easy as if anyone could do the same. Hats are meant to transform looks and make the wearer feel wonderful. “The best recognition is when customers share the joy of being complimented… saying they had no idea that hats could be beautiful and look so good. That’s what makes me happy!”
The “Thistle” Headpiece worn by Maria Zherebtsova
Photo by Julia Flit Photography
