In the photo He is wearing Panerai Luminor Marina watch, Brunello Cucinelli Suit and Charvet Slim-Fit Shirt
When you write about men’s style, sooner or later you will have to tackle watches. It’s usually the only significant piece of jewellery that men wear now that most have realised that a gold pendant on a hairy chest doesn’t attract the ladies, and due to the cost it’s also one of the biggest purchases a man makes. They say that an engagement ring should cost a months salary, but if that’s true then surely a watch should cost more?
Luckily there are many ways to spend money on watches. I remember it was one of the first things everyone bought with their first bonus, usually a TAG with a chunky metal armband. Nowadays there is a lot more variety and no real limit on price. I’ll say one thing upfront though: Apple watches etc are a complete cop out. They will be obsolete in one year and have 0 residual value. If you are going to get something to wear on your wrist, then get something mechanical that stands the test of time.
So what to buy? I’ve never liked Rolexes, even if there are some design classics in the line up, like the Seamaster. Also, the jewellery brands have gotten into the fray but I don’t think a man should go around wearing a Cartier or a Gucci watch so for simplicity I’m dismissing all of those. However , I have been awestruck by a Van Cleef Complication Poetique Midnight Planetarium Watch at a recent corporate event…. but that’s a story for another time.
If you are on a real budget, then a simple Breitling or Tag can still do the job. I’d avoid the gimmicky military style ones, it’s hard to shake the Sunday Times (celebrate the success of the Dambusters with this limited edition 8k gold watch, only £249) image of this kind of watch, even if a Breitling Cockpit for example is ok. Just remember that you aren’t a fighter pilot or an F1 driver and buying a watch won’t make you one. A watch brand in the budget segment I actually like is Bell and Ross. They make nice and simple watches like the WW1 which don’t break the bank. I prefer the round ones rather than the square like the BR1. Generally I think a good guide to a nice watch is the size of the bezel. I prefer the majority of the watch to be the face itself rather than a lot of metal, even if the metal happens to be some sort of super grade titanium mixed with comet dust. Overall their vintage watches are nicer, when the main marketing gag for their diver’s instruments is that they are waterproof down to 1000 meters then clearly things are a bit silly. I also like the Panerais which have a similar style and maybe feel a bit more exclusive.
Breitling have also gone down the same path with their marketing (no I won’t need a watch when I am in space) but they do have some nice ones like the Navitimer, so if you like Breitlings go for one of those.
Moving up the price range you find Hublot and IWC. I think the Hublot fushion is actually a nice and quite understated watch but unfortunately as you go up the range the Hublots start to look very vulgar. Please do not get a Hublot moonphase rose gold unless you are a rock star and can afford to be post modern wear it as an ironic statement.
The last of the “mass market” I brands I wanted to mention is IWC. They have some nice watches starting at the basic “Pilot” but more importantly the Portugieser. This is a watch that looks elegant and comes at a lot of different price points. My favourite is the Perpetual Calendar with the silver dial and red gold case.
After the mass market watches you start getting into the really aspirational watches, where you are really buying a work of art. These are watches which are pretty unique and once you are wearing one you start to recognise other afficionados. It’s like belonging to a very exclusive club. I’ve had a lot of opportunities to start up conversations with various business contacts through watches, it’s like talking about Pinarello bikes but without the lycra. Wearing these kind of watches also tends to attract gold diggers, and while that can be nice just make sure you keep your watch on your wrist. I actually did lose a watch to a one night stand once and since then I’m very careful about it.
In the top end watches you find Patek Philippe grand complications, Richard Mille ( they have some mad ones like the Erotic Tourbillion) , Bovet and Breguet. These watches can get a little nerdy like the Breguet Classique Complications but the craftsmanship is incredible and owning one is a bit like hanging a Monet on your wall. Not everyone can have a Monet, which is precisely the point.
You may well ask at the end of this article, what watch I am wearing at the moment. Well there is a kind of watch which I haven’t mentioned, which is the utilitarian type for specific activities. This weekend I am running a two day mountain marathon in Scotland called the OMM and for something like that there is only one watch, a Suunto Ambit 3 with GPS. Hopefully it will keep me out of trouble and while it doesn’t have the emergency beacon on the Breitling, at least I will always know where I am.
