Valentino SS2017
It would seem the fashion world moves with the times. Nowadays we are seeing the industry head towards the simplification of fashion – and the Gvasalia brothers, Demna and Guram, are a great example.
Their look is characterised by oversized hoodies and t-shirts, a boyish “I don’t care” aesthetic, and items we used to be too embarrassed to put on to buy a pint of milk are now back and en-vogue in a big way! This new wave is also a model for Vetements and is now used on the catwalks of many other designers like Balenciaga, Chanel and Paco Rabanne. In the fifties Dior was ahead of the game with its “New Look“ collection, and in the sixties minimalism and geometry were ruling the catwalk. The trend dictated by Paco Rabanne today welcomes an era of street-style and anti-glamour.
After the successful launch and sell-out of Vetements DHL t-shirts and patchwork jeans, designers have taken on a new vision. Large boyish sweats, ribbed jeans, sporty jackets – this trend says “simplicity“. This is even evident in the spring-summer collections of old established brands known for classic elegance such as Dior and Givenchy.
Making her debut as Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri has redefined the traditional way femininity is viewed. Inspired by sport and street style, the designer sent the runway models down wearing fencing-inspired quilted tops paired alongside cropped trousers in creamy white, while traditional Dior tulle skirts were paired with T-shirts and leather biker jackets.
Going solo at Valentino (without his co-designer Maria Grazia Chiuri) Pierpaolo Piccioli stole our hearts with his oversized embroidered pink leather jacket, rumoured to be a favourite of Anna Wintour. Although the collection reflects the brand’s DNA and the ability to work with textures and create beautiful silhouettes, the new Valentino collection is pure, simple and most of all wearable.
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci has had enough with pompous gothic style. His SS17 collection was about simplicity, quiet colours, little printing and subtle makeup. This all can mean only one thing: fashion changes along with society.
These days it’s not about showing off your wealth or grabbing too much attention. Amidst the global economic crisis of the 21st century, the fashion industry reacts to economic uncertainty by getting rid of excessive adornments and glamour.
Dior SS2017
